It was my first time swimming in the Pacific, and I think I have always said, “oh, I’m afraid of the riptide, I will drown! I’ll just hang out here at the shore.” Funny thing about old stories, they are not even really true anymore. They just become part of your identity at a certain point. Or so you think.
Amped up by supportive friends and sugar… I just ran into the waves, head first. And wow, did I take a lot of water up the nose. But it was exhilarating, getting knocked around by Mother Nature. And, this would explain my fascination with watching surfing.
Risk taking. Get on board with it, people!
Also, to clarify, the waves were bigger than in this photo.
Talk to you soon,
P.S.- the website re-design continues, one modification at a time. And look down! A newsletter signup sheet!